Custom Dreadnought Guitar #66 186

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This guitar sports a Torrefied red spruce top and East Indian rosewood back and sides for sound, and Waverly tuning machines, a beveled edge, and some nice purfling touches for function and looks. Like all of the Torrefied dreds I've built, this one is a boomer!

Construction Photos

The top and back plates are joined with hot hide glue. The rosette is inlaid into the top, then scraped and sanded level with the surrounding wood. The top is sanded to finished thickness. The soundhole is cut out, and the top is cut to shape. Bracing stock is cut to rough dimensions, and the pattern is laid out on the inside of the top.

The maple bridge patch and a small stiffening doubler just ahead of it are glued in with hot hide glue. The head block is fabricated and glued together. The back center seam web is glued into place. The top bracing is shaped and glued in. The sides are cut to size and bent over a hot pipe, then placed inside an external form.

The neck and tail blocks are glued to the sides. The back reinforcing strip is notched to receive the back braces, and the braces are glued in place. The kerfed lining is glued in. The "bird's beak" at the neck/headstock joint is cut with handsaws.

The headstock is notched to receive the bird's beak, and the joint is tested for proper fit. The guitar's body is removed from the external form, and the edges of the top and back are trimmed flush with the sides. The binding and purfling blanks that I'd laminated earlier are ripped into strips, and the resulting bindings are bent over a hot pipe.

Binding and purfling rabbets are routed. A template is utilized to rout the purfling inboard in the beveled edge area. The bindings and purflings are glued into place. The edge is beveled to the edge of the binding and purfling.

A paper template is created and used to cut a piece of maple that matches the binding. The beveled edge overlay is glued, and clamped into place with tape and rubber bands. The clamping is removed, and the beveled edge is scraped lecvel with the top and sides. The neck is cut to shape and profile, and the truss rod slot is routed.

The fretboard is cut to shape, radiused, and the slots are cut. A specialized jig is utilized to cut the dovetail joint in neck and body. The headstock is cut to profile, and glued to the "bird's beak" prepared in the end of the neck. The position markers and side dots are inlet into the fretboard.

The frets are installed, set in a bit of hot hide glue and then pressed home. Slots are routed into the back of the fretboard, and carbon fiber reinforcing rods are installed in the upper portion of the fretboard. The truss rod is installed in the neck, and slots for the truss rod and carbon fiber reinforcing are extended into the body of the guitar. The fretboard is glued to the neck. The "Skipper" logo is printed on a piece of paper and glued to a mother of pearl blank. The logo is cut out and inlet into the headstock overlay.
The headstock overlay is glued to the headstock. The neck is shaped to final dimensions. The bridge is accurately located and temporarily pinned into place. The neck is darkened with dichromate. Areas to remain unfinished are masked off.

The instrument is given a coat of vinyl sealer, and then the pores are filled. The instrument is given a series of lacquer coats, with sanding between each coat. Then it's set aside to cure before being wet sanded and buffed. Tuning machines, bridge, saddle, bridge pins, and pickguard are added.

A strap button is added. Strings are installed, and with a bit of setup work, it's ready to make some music.

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